When the line’s too long at Pok Pok, try the leek cakes at Kim Chuy, a Chiu Chow noodle house across the street. (Jonathan Gold / Los Angeles Times) By Jonathan Gold. Jan. 2, 2015 12:54 PM PT .

1. Brush a rimmed baking sheet with olive oil. 2. In a large saucepan, combine the potatoes and cold water to cover by 1 inch. Add a generous pinch of salt.

Leeks have a mild onion flavor, but are a little tougher than an onion. They resemble an enormous green onion, but are at least an inch or so in diameter and can be 10 to 12 inches long.